Kaffir lime leaves are used for the leaf, not the fruit. Their aroma is more intense and more perfumed than any lime zest, and it is the single ingredient that tells you which city this bottle is about before the glass reaches the table. HAVN builds its Bangkok edition on them, alongside lemongrass, ginger and juniper, at 40%.

Three of the four botanicals are things a Thai kitchen keeps within reach, and the recipe uses them the way a kitchen would rather than the way a distiller usually does. Lemongrass gives a clean citrus-herbal structure, more green stalk than fruit, and it runs across the middle of the palate holding everything together. The lime leaves work above it, floral and sharply aromatic, and between the two the aroma opens bright and immediately recognisable. Ginger comes last and builds rather than arrives: a gentle spicy warmth that grows through the palate without ever taking it over. Juniper stays present from beginning to end, and that matters here more than in most recipes, since three assertive Southeast Asian botanicals could easily leave the category behind. It anchors them instead.

Fresh and dynamic through, crisp and lightly spicy at the close. Tonic, neutral or soft, is what this is designed for, plenty of ice, a normal measure. The producer suggests lemongrass, something from the lime, or a hint of chilli as garnish, and the chilli is the interesting one since it follows the ginger rather than the citrus. Four botanicals that name a place precisely. Most city-themed bottles settle for a picture on the label. This one puts the market stall on the ingredient list, and the difference is legible from the first glass. It closes citric, herbal and warm.