The distillery stands less than a mile from the Atlantic, at the foot of Sliabh Liag in County Donegal, and the five seaweeds in this gin are hand-harvested from the shore below it. Sliabh Liag Distillers made the first gin ever distilled in the county, and the proximity is not decoration: the batch codes are tied to the phases of the moon, because the tides decide when the weed can be cut.

Sugar kelp, dulse, pepper dulse, carrageen moss and dúlamán, the channel wrack that names the bottle and comes from a traditional song about seaweed gatherers. Each does something different. Sugar kelp brings a gentle sweetness, dulse a savoury salinity, carrageen moss a subtle nutty richness and some of the texture, and pepper dulse a spicy umami note that is the most distinctive of the five. Beneath them the recipe is entirely classical: juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia, sweet orange peel and lemon peel, and without it the gin would read as a marine curiosity.

Distillation is in small batches in a copper pot still called Méabh, with a deliberately low alcohol charge and a narrow cut, both chosen to protect flavours that a hard run would destroy. Bottled at 43.2%. The nose is sea breeze and wet rock, dried seaweed, citrus peel and clean juniper. The palate is gently saline and complex, with oyster shell, chestnut and a faint tannic grip, and the texture is smooth and slightly oily. Long, dry and maritime at the close, with iodine, umami and citrus bitterness.

Double Gold at the China Wine and Spirits Awards in 2018, Gold at The Drinks Business Gin Masters and Gold at the World Gin Masters Asia the same year. The squat dark bottle is modelled on glass recovered from Spanish Armada wrecks off the same coast, sealed with wax and individually numbered.