The juniper comes from a nature reserve in Uzbekistan, and the people who pick it are paid a wage that makes the picking worth doing. That is not a marketing line attached to a finished product; it is the reason the supply chain was built the way it was. FAIR distils in Cognac on a vodka base in a Stupfler still, at 40%.

Uzbek juniper is wild rather than cultivated, and wild berries carry more oil and a rougher, more resinous character than farmed ones. It opens the aroma clearly, lifted by a citrus brightness that the recipe never names as a fruit. A week of maceration is what draws that out, longer than most producers allow and short enough that nothing stews in the spirit. The remaining botanicals are organic and Fairtrade without exception. Cardamom cools the top with camphor, coriander adds warm seed spice, and grains of paradise supply a peppery heat that comes late and remains, bought from a cooperative of over three thousand farmers in Kerala. Angelica root pins the base to dry earth. Calamus root is the unusual one, sweet and faintly medicinal, closer to a rhizome than to a spice, and it lends the middle a texture nothing else here could.

Round is the word for the palate, and the finish is warm and persistent rather than sharp, building slowly instead of arriving at once. Load the glass with ice, reach for a neutral tonic, and pour an ordinary measure: 40% on a smooth base needs no protecting. Lemon peel is the plain option; a few grains of paradise, lightly crushed, follow the pepper instead. A gin that can name the cooperative behind one of its spices is unusual, and the number is on the label. Most producers describe where their botanicals grow; very few can say what the picking pays. It ends spiced, round and warm.