Quince and Muscat grapes are the pair that makes this gin unusual. Neither is a common botanical, and together they cover a fruit register that berries and citrus never reach: quince is aromatic but hard and tart until cooked, Muscat is perfumed and sweet-smelling without being sugary. Lavender, elderflower, juniper and a set of natural spices complete a recipe bottled at 40% ABV, named after the Hungarian lake from which it takes its inspiration.

Flowers open proceedings, and two of them are at work doing different jobs. Elderflower is delicate and slightly honeyed, lavender cooler and more aromatic, and between them they set the upper register. The fruit sits underneath and is where the interest lies: Muscat brings a grape-like perfume that reads as sweetness without adding any, and quince follows with a firmer, more astringent fruit note that prevents any softening of the whole. The spices fill the middle discreetly, while juniper traces a green line from start to finish. The palate is fresh and aromatic, and it dries out markedly by the close, which the floral opening does not prepare you for.

Delicate florals and an unusual fruit pairing both argue for a light hand at every stage. Use a plain tonic, keep the glass thoroughly iced, and pour without hurrying so that the elderflower survives the carbonation intact. Lemon peel sharpens the top; a sprig of lavender doubles the flower for anyone who wants it foregrounded. Avoid fruit garnishes altogether, since they flatten the quince and add nothing the recipe lacks. Two flowers and two unusual fruits could easily have produced a muddle, and the recipe stays legible because each one is doing a different job. It ends floral and fruity, closing perfectly clean.