Espelette is the only chili in France with a protected designation, and it earned it on aroma rather than on heat. The pepper is grown, strung up and dried on the house fronts of a handful of Basque villages, and what it gives a dish is a fruity, faintly smoky warmth instead of a burn. Maison Brana, a family distillery in the Basque Country, distils it into a juniper base at 43%.

Two ingredients is a short list and it removes every place to hide. Juniper opens first, clean and green, with fresh herbal notes beside it, and for a moment the gin behaves like a classic recipe. Then the pepper arrives, and the way it arrives is the whole point: not as a spike at the front, but as a warmth that builds gradually across the palate and keeps building after the swallow. Because Espelette is aromatic before it is hot, what comes with that warmth is fruit and a dry, faintly toasted note rather than pure capsaicin, and the herbal character of the juniper stays legible underneath it all the way through. The texture stays dry and clean, the finish peppery and herbal in equal measure.

Heat that builds needs cold and dilution to stay pleasant. A neutral tonic in a very cold glass, ice all the way to the rim, lets the pepper show without accumulating; pour a full measure and let it settle a moment. Lemon works as a garnish, though a strip of red pepper is the honest one. It brings genuine warmth to a Bloody Mary or a Margarita variant. A regional ingredient with a legal boundary drawn around it is a serious thing to put in a bottle. Espelette is grown across a few hundred hectares and nowhere else at all, which makes it a supply constraint as much as a flavour. It ends peppery, dry and warm.