Prunes are dried fruit, and dried fruit is the last thing anybody looks for in a London Dry. Copenhagen Distillery puts them in an organic recipe alongside sweet and bitter orange peel, cardamom and juniper, and the effect is precisely what dried fruit does anywhere else: it adds depth and a dark, quiet sweetness that fresh fruit cannot supply. Bottled at 41%.

Two kinds of orange peel do the leading and they work at different levels. Sweet orange fills the top with a bright, generous zest, and bitter orange sits underneath it supplying the pith bitterness that keeps the fruit from becoming a cordial. Between them the citrus is more complete than a single peel would allow. Cardamom is the spice, cool and slightly camphorous with an earthy side that shows more clearly here than in most recipes, and an allspice character appears alongside it. Then the prunes work at the base, and what they contribute is body as much as flavour: a soft, rounded sweetness filling the bottom of the palate and lengthens everything above it. Juniper anchors the arrangement and earns the classification. The finish is long and layered rather than sharp.

Complexity like this needs a mixer that keeps quiet. A neutral tonic, a glass thick with ice, and no flavoured alternative, which would only repeat the orange. Orange peel in a broad ribbon is what the recipe asks for; a cardamom pod, lightly crushed, follows the spice instead. It is worth drinking neat, where the prunes are easiest to find. Organic certification counts for more on a fruit gin, since peel concentrates whatever was sprayed on it. Dried fruit belongs in a cake far more readily than in a dry gin, and the surprise is how little the classification suffers. It closes citric, spiced and deep.