Goji berries are the ingredient here that nobody puts in a gin. Raspberry explains the colour and the name, but goji is what gives the fruit its odd, slightly savoury depth: a dried berry with a tart, faintly tomato-like edge that no soft fruit provides on its own. Filliers adds both to a base of twenty-eight botanicals and bottles at 37.5%.

Twenty-eight is a large number and the fruit has to be strong to be heard over it. Fresh raspberry manages it, arriving tart rather than sweet and holding the front of the palate throughout. Goji works below, quieter, adding the depth that keeps the raspberry from reading as a flavouring. Vanilla is the third element of that group and the one that changes the texture: it gives a creaminess unusual in a pink gin and is the reason the palate is described as creamy yet slightly dry, two things that rarely go together. Juniper spice runs through the middle with real presence, which twenty-eight botanicals could easily have buried, and a subtle pepper note appears in the aroma alongside the red fruit. The finish is warm and long rather than short and sweet, which is where this parts company with most of the category.

The lower strength means the glass has to be built with care. Ice first and generously, a neutral tonic rather than a fruited one, and a pour heavier than habit suggests. One or two fresh raspberries repeat the recipe, while orange peel cuts the vanilla and is the sharper option. Product of the Year in 2019 and a run of international silver medals suggest the balance was noticed. Making a pink gin dry is harder than making one sweet. Twenty-eight botanicals plus two fruits should be a crowd, and the goji is what stops it becoming one. It ends fruity, creamy and warm.