Ukiyo means floating world, the idea of living inside a moment that will not last, and the gin carrying the name starts from a base most gins never touch. In Chiba, east of Tokyo, rice grown locally is fermented and distilled into shochu, and that spirit - not a neutral grain alcohol - is what the botanicals are redistilled into. Eleven of them go in, and four set the direction: sakura, yuzu, sansho and mikan peel. It is bottled at 40% ABV.

Cherry blossom is the first thing to register, delicate and powdery rather than perfumed, and it stays legible because the shochu base is softer and slightly sweeter than grain spirit would be. Yuzu and mikan peel give two different citrus registers - the yuzu sharp and aromatic, the mikan rounder, closer to a sweet orange - and between them they carry the body of the drink. Juniper holds its place without pushing, and sansho closes on a light woody spice with the faint tingle the pepper is known for. The finish is short, clean and floral, which makes this a gentler bottle than its botanical list suggests.

A delicate gin punished by a heavy mixer is a waste, so keep the build simple. A large ice sphere in a highball, 5 cl poured over it, then 15 cl of Thomas Henry Cherry Blossom Tonic, which extends the sakura instead of arguing with it. Stir gently and float a sliver of fresh yuzu on the surface, where the oils reach the nose before the first sip. Fentimans Pink Rhubarb Tonic Water pushes it towards tart fruit and Fever-Tree Elderflower towards the floral, but neither improves on the blossom pairing when the blossom is the point. Serve it cold and drink it cold: the blossom is the first thing to go as the glass warms up.