Bitter almond is what gives this recipe its shape. It carries the marzipan note that a sweet almond never produces, dry and slightly medicinal, and it comes to rest low down, where it makes the whole gin taste rounder than its list would suggest. Jodhpur Premium runs thirteen botanicals, several of them Indian, at 43%.

Above the almond, three citrus peels do the lifting rather than one. Lemon is the sharpest, orange the roundest, and grapefruit contributes the bitterness that keeps the top of the aroma from turning sweet, and together they account for the citrus resin the palate shows late. Ginger root is the warm element, a clean heat that builds rather than bites, and cassia works beside it with a sweeter cinnamon character. Coriander seed adds its familiar warm spice, liquorice lengthens the close, sweet without sugar, and angelica root spreads dry earth beneath everything. Orris root binds the set with a powdery floral quality. The nose leads with wild berry and juniper over a background of citrus and herbs, and the palate is smooth and unctuous rather than sharp.

A gin built for roundness suits mixing that respects it. Neutral tonic, ice most of the way up, and a normal measure; orange peel follows the softer half of the recipe, grapefruit the bitter one, and either works. It also makes a fuller Martini than a purely dry gin would. Two golds at San Francisco, in 2011 and again in 2013. Naming a bottle after an Indian city and then earning it with the botanicals is not the usual order for a brand of this kind. Thirteen botanicals is more than a London Dry strictly needs, and the extra weight all goes into the middle rather than the top. It closes spiced, citric and smooth.