Inside a former church, St James's on James's Street in Dublin, Pearse Lyons Distillery distils Míl in a pot still and fills each 70 cl bottle at 42% ABV. The name refers to Míl, the mythical Spanish warrior whose sons, according to Irish legend, settled Ireland and brought the warm flavours of the Mediterranean with them. The distillery links the story to the church's stained-glass window, which depicts the Camino de Santiago, where St James is buried.

Citrus · Spicy · Herbal

The recipe reflects that Iberian-Irish meeting with nine botanicals: almond, basil, bergamot orange, gooseberry, juniper, olives, orris, rosemary and thyme. The herbs give the gin a garden-like, Mediterranean character, bergamot and gooseberry add brightness, and olive and almond bring a savoury, rounded counterpoint. The bright, colourful label shows a bearded warrior among flowers and fruit. The founder, Dr Pearse Lyons, restored the church as a distillery, which is now open for tours. Gooseberry is unusual in gin and adds a tart, green fruit note, while the olives bring a faintly salty, savoury side.

The distillery describes a summer-fresh nose of citrus with subtle herb notes of basil, thyme and rosemary and a piney juniper.

The palate is fresh, lively and bittersweet, and the finish returns to clean citrus. Juniper keeps the profile recognisably that of a gin, while the herbs make it more layered than a simple citrus-led recipe.

As a long drink, it takes Indian tonic well, garnished with a twist of lemon, a basil leaf and a small sprig of thyme. A few olives served on the side complete the Mediterranean theme without going into the glass. It also suits a dry Martini garnished with an olive, which brings out its savoury side.