Bahia orange and Sicilian lemon open the list of thirteen botanicals that Destilaria Sanctvm uses for its London Dry, made in small batches in the Brazilian state of Espírito Santo. Alongside them come juniper and coriander, angelica, rosemary and bay leaf, then cardamom, allspice, black pepper, liquorice, tonka bean and orris root. The base is an extra-neutral cereal spirit cut with demineralised water, and the gin is gluten-free. The label sums up its origin in three words, ES - Brazil, for Espírito Santo.

Citrus · Dry · Spicy · Herbal

The bottle is as striking as the recipe: matte black glass, a red geometric design around a winged emblem and a sprig of juniper, and the words small batch and 100% handcrafted. It holds 750 ml. The distillery describes the gin as powerful, with a unique and intense personality built on marked contrasts between its botanicals.

Those contrasts are easy to follow. The two citrus fruits lead, the Bahia orange rounder and the lemon sharper, before rosemary and bay bring a green, herbal note. Black pepper, allspice and cardamom then warm the palate, while liquorice and tonka add depth and a hint of sweetness that never makes the gin taste sugary. Juniper stays present throughout, and orris helps to hold the aromas together on a long, spicy finish. It is a gin that rewards slow sipping as much as mixing.

For a gin and tonic, use large ice and a chilled Indian tonic poured slowly, so that the citrus opening is not lost. A thin wheel of orange and a small sprig of rosemary point to two of the botanicals without crowding the drink. Try a small measure neat or with a single ice cube first: it shows how the gin moves from citrus to spice, and how the tonka lingers at the very end.