Lilly pilly berries sit at the centre of Black Cockatoo Bush Berry Gin, made in Bridgetown at the edge of the Blackwood Forest in Western Australia. The distillery pairs that tart native fruit with river mint and Geraldton waxflower, and pink grapefruit carries the citrus. Angelica, orris, coriander, cardamom and edible lavender fill in the spice and floral detail, and the gin is filled at 41% ABV in 700ml.

Colour comes last. Rosella flowers, the wild hibiscus of northern Australia, and a small quantity of raspberry steep in the spirit after distillation, which is what turns it pink. Nothing artificial is added, so the shade varies from batch to batch and fades slowly over time. Most of the plants come from the distillery's own garden or from a native-food grower they work with, and ten per cent of profits goes to the Kaarakin Black Cockatoo Conservation Centre that gives the brand its name.

Berry fruit arrives first, the tartness of the lilly pilly sharpening on the palate. Pink grapefruit follows with a fresh citrus lift, river mint and waxflower bring a greener scent, and lavender adds a softer floral note. Cardamom and coriander sit behind the fruit, while juniper and the roots keep the finish dry: the pink colour is not a promise of sweetness. The sequence runs from berries to herbs to citrus without losing the juniper. Silver at the Australian Gin Awards and bronze at the Melbourne Royal spirits awards, both in 2023, suggest the balance holds up blind.

Serve it over large ice with chilled Indian tonic, adding a thin slice of pink grapefruit and a very small sprig of lavender among the cubes. The distillery recommends both as garnishes, so the glass repeats the recipe rather than adding to it. Keep the tonic plain: a heavily aromatic mixer would cover the river mint and waxflower. As the ice melts, the sharper berry note softens and the grapefruit comes forward.