Bondi Liquor Co puts mandarin at the centre of this 40% ABV gin. Lemon myrtle, cardamom, ginger and river mint support the fruit rather than compete with it. Made by the Sydney distillery in a 70 cl bottle, it has a notably different purpose from the house's Beach Dry Gin: this one invites a bright, fruit-led drink. Mandarin gives the immediately recognisable citrus note, while the Australian herbs and spices keep the palate from becoming one-dimensional. The orange label makes the connection to the fruit clear before the bottle is opened.

The mandarin aroma is rounder and softer than lemon, so the greener lemon myrtle has room to sharpen it. River mint brings coolness without needing a mint-flavoured mixer. Ginger adds warmth toward the finish; cardamom links the fruit to the spice with its own citrus-like scent. None of these details require a sugary topping to be noticed. Try a little neat first and the change from juicy fruit to herbs becomes clearer. Over ice, the fruit broadens and the mint feels lighter. This is a gin to drink for its particular mandarin character, not simply a generic citrus alternative.

The distillery suggests soda with a mandarin segment or a sprig of lemon myrtle. A tall glass of large ice and cold soda is therefore the natural first choice. Place a small segment and a fresh sprig among the cubes, with a little of each beside the glass. The soda gives the mandarin room without adding the quinine bitterness of tonic; it also leaves the river mint and ginger easy to notice. Add the soda gradually rather than filling the glass at once. Taste after the first pour, then lengthen the drink only as much as needed. The garnish should stay light: too much fresh citrus could make it harder to distinguish the fruit already carried by the gin.