Papa Salt Coastal Gin brings Australian citrus and native wattleseed to a 42.8% ABV gin. The turquoise bottle gives few clues to a recipe that includes juniper, citrus peel, hibiscus, wattleseed, ginger, pink peppercorn and oyster shell. These ingredients are not a claim that the drink tastes of seawater. Oyster shell plays a subtle part alongside the more immediately recognisable citrus and spice, while wattleseed contributes a toasted, nut-like shade. The producer recommends a straightforward mix with soda and orange rather than a heavily sweetened tonic.

Juniper holds the gin together, with citrus bringing brightness at the start. Hibiscus adds a gentle floral edge and ginger gives a fresh warmth that differs from the rounder spice of pink peppercorn. The toasted quality associated with wattleseed appears later. This makes the drink lively without requiring a loud garnish or a coloured mixer. A small neat taste is useful before mixing, particularly if you want to notice where the citrus ends and the warmer ingredients begin.

Serve it over plenty of ice with cold soda water and a fresh orange wedge. A thin slice of ginger reinforces an ingredient already in the gin; put both garnishes among the ice and keep another pair beside the glass. Soda leaves the botanicals more exposed than tonic, which is the point of this simple drink. Start with a moderate splash and add more only after tasting. The orange brings enough sweetness of its own, and the fresh ginger keeps the finish clean. It is especially refreshing when the soda is poured immediately before drinking, while its bubbles are still lively.