James Bay Distillers now offers Gintrigue after 46 months of finishing in a former Martell cognac cask. Based at Paine Field in Everett, Washington, the distillery bottles this barrel-finished gin at 40% ABV. Juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia and orris form the base.

The long stay in cognac wood gives the gin its warmer profile. Stone fruit and dried-fruit notes meet the cinnamon-like spice of cassia. Oak gives the liquid a golden colour and a fuller texture than a clear London Dry, without covering the botanicals: the aroma still opens on juniper. This 46-month bottling has earned gold medals, and the distillery presents it as a gin for slow sipping as well as cocktails.

Neat, juniper comes first, followed by the light citrus spice of coriander. Cassia adds warmth while angelica and orris give the middle a drier, earthy turn. Oak softens all of it and becomes clearer towards the finish, which closes on cinnamon and a gentle sweetness. A few drops of water open the spice and make the wood easier to read. The balance suits slow drinking without losing the resinous juniper line.

The distillery suggests it neat, in a mule, or as an Old Fashioned, and the last of those is the most interesting. Stir 4cl with ice and a dash of orange bitters, strain over one large cube, then express a strip of orange peel over the glass and drop it in. Orange brightens the spice and the oak. Keep any sugar to a minimum so the juniper stays audible, and skip heavier fruit garnishes, which hide the quieter cask notes. A mule works too, where ginger meets the cassia head on.