A gin-making experience, given as a present for Paul's 60th birthday, started The Citrologist. Paul and Malcolm had met as university students in 1979; after careers in medicine and academia, they turned that gift into The Wildings Distillery in Galashiels, in the Scottish Borders, and Malcolm's involvement revived a family tradition of distilling in the Highlands.

Pink Grapefruit Gin belongs to the citrus side of the range, alongside Key Lime and Lemon. The distillery states the idea simply: the aroma and taste of fresh grapefruit in perfect balance with juniper and other hand-selected botanicals. The citrus is used fresh and prepared by hand, and like the rest of the standard range the gin comes in at 42% ABV; only the Navy Strength goes higher, at 57%.

Pink grapefruit is an excellent partner for juniper. Its peel carries fragrant, slightly resinous oils, its flesh brings a juicy acidity, and its natural bitterness echoes the dry pine notes of the berry. The distillery presents it as a zesty gin for a hot summer's day, or for any moment when something really refreshing is needed, and retailers suggest it neat, over ice or as the base for a crisp gin and tonic. On a warm day, that directness is exactly the point.

The Wildings range has grown quickly, with London Dry and Scottish Dry gins, a navy strength and a long list of special editions, but the citrus gins remain the most direct illustration of the Citrologist name. For a gin and tonic, an Indian tonic suits the natural bitterness of grapefruit; add plenty of ice and a wedge of pink grapefruit, squeezed lightly over the drink so its oils sit on the surface. Quinine and grapefruit pith then meet on the same bitter, refreshing note.