Makrut limes, also known as Thai or kaffir limes, bring an intensely aromatic citrus to this special edition from The Citrologist. Their leaves are used extensively in Thai and Indian cuisine, and the distillery describes a beautifully refreshing gin that tastes of lemongrass.

The Special Edition range from The Wildings Distillery in Galashiels, in the Scottish Borders, is dedicated to more unusual citrus fruits from around the world. Only fresh fruit is used, never dried or frozen, which gives these gins their fresh flavour and aroma, and each batch produces a limited number of bottles, so a release can sell out quickly. The collection changes as different citrus fruits come into season; alongside Makrut Lime it has included Yuzu, Amalfi Lemon, Sudachi, Calamansi, Buddha's Hand and Tarocco Blood Orange. Bottles of 700 ml and 50 ml are available, at 42% ABV.

Makrut lime is very different from an ordinary lime. Its knobbly, wrinkled rind is packed with fragrant oils, and its flavour leans towards lemongrass and herbs rather than simple sourness, which explains the green, refreshing character of this gin. Juniper gives that perfume a dry backbone, so the result stays crisp rather than sharp.

With tonic, choose a light one that leaves room for the lemongrass notes, and add a thin slice of lime or a single makrut lime leaf, lightly torn to release its scent. The gin also suits a simple gimlet, where its herbal citrus can lead, and a small splash of soda instead of tonic shows the fruit at its most direct.