Four Patagonian names sit in this recipe and in almost no other: tepa, arrayan, maqui and calafate. The first is a leaf, the other three are berries, and all four grow in the southern forests rather than being shipped in from a botanical wholesaler.

Tepa leaves set the forest tone, green and faintly camphorous, the note that makes the whole bottle smell of wet woodland rather than of a still room. The three berries divide the fruit between them: maqui is deeply dark and dense, calafate tart and wild, arrayan smaller and more perfumed. Against them, lemon and pink grapefruit hold the citrus line, the grapefruit adding a pithy bitterness that stops the berries turning sweet. Juniper is still in charge, as a London Dry demands, and fourteen botanicals in total means the recipe is far from a novelty built on four local names. Ten of the fourteen are plants any gin maker would recognise, so the recipe stays a gin and never slides towards a forest liqueur.

Water comes from glacier melt and snowmelt collected beside the Rosselot National Reserve, and the distillation uses vapour infusion in a copper pot still, which passes alcohol vapour through the botanicals instead of boiling them. Delicate leaves survive that treatment; they do not survive a long hot maceration. It costs yield, since less alcohol comes off the still for the same charge of botanicals. The bottling strength is 43%.

A premium tonic with restrained quinine lets the forest through. A 4 cl measure, 10 cl of tonic, a glass filled with dense ice, a pink grapefruit peel and a spoonful of maqui berries. Cold throughout, one brief stir. Squeeze the grapefruit peel over the surface before it goes in; the maqui berries are there to colour and perfume, not to be eaten.