Pour it short and keep the tonic tight. At 30% this is the lightest bottling on the Clover bench and the easiest to drown, and four centilitres to ten of Mediterranean tonic is the working proportion: enough dilution to open the citrus, not enough to leave the drink watery.

The citrus is the whole point. Italian sun-ripened lemons give the sharp, oily top note, and clementine sits under them with something rounder and more perfumed, less acid than orange and more floral than mandarin. Together they read as fresh fruit rather than as peel, which is what separates this from a classical citrus-led London Dry. Juniper forms the base, present but deliberately behind the fruit. At this strength it could hardly be otherwise: alcohol is what carries aroma, and a third less of it means the botanicals have to be generous to reach the nose at all.

Kalmthout is where it is made, in the same family distillery as the rest of the range, and Limonetta belongs to its summer end rather than standing apart from it. Where the Original leans floral and peppery, this one drops the spice and pushes the fruit forward. The low strength is part of that choice: it was built for long, cold drinking rather than for a stirred cocktail. It also serves well as the base of a spritz, where the bubbles and the low strength work in the same direction and the lemon has something to push against.

Use a balloon glass, clear ice, a thin lemon wheel and a clementine peel. Squeeze neither. Both fruits are already generous, and the advantage of a lower strength is that the fruit does not have to fight alcohol to be tasted. If the drink comes out sweet, the answer is less tonic rather than more ice. Cold matters more here than elsewhere: warmed by a few degrees, the clementine turns candied and the lemon loses its edge first.