Girolle mushroom, oregano and patchouli are the three botanicals James Gin names as central here, which tells you immediately that California Dreamgin' is not chasing a fruit profile. They join juniper, coriander, angelica, liquorice root, bay leaf and lemon peel in a recipe built around savoury contrast rather than sweetness. The producer describes the girolle as lightly fruity and peppery with a suggestion of apricot, while the patchouli works as an earthy, woody presence that settles at the back of the palate. It is bottled at 40% ABV.

Whatever fruit there is stays subtle and arrives inside a dry aromatic frame. Juniper and coriander keep the identity clearly gin-shaped, lemon peel supplies a high fresh note, and oregano, bay and mushroom pull the middle toward a savoury herb garden. Patchouli is used for depth rather than perfume, which is the difference between an intriguing gin and an overwhelming one. The nose can read earthy and warm, but a bright peppery edge runs through it and stops the whole thing from sitting heavily.

On the palate the opening is dry: juniper, lemon and coriander in that order. The middle is where the gin earns its name, as oregano, mushroom and bay leaf build an umami-like herbal character and liquorice rounds the texture around it. Patchouli extends the finish with a woody, earthy shadow, and the girolle note stays delicate rather than declaring itself. Serve it cold, and resist burying it under a strongly floral or sweet tonic - the contrast between lemon brightness and savoury botanical depth is the entire point.

For a balanced gin and tonic, fill a chilled balloon glass with clear ice, pour 5 cl of California Dreamgin' and top with 12 cl of Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water. Stir once, express a lemon peel over the surface and add a small sprig of oregano. The garnish follows the botanical profile directly, and the tonic gives a soft herbal lift without masking the mushroom, patchouli and juniper underneath.