The name promises peach and raspberry, and the base underneath is a classical dry gin that promises neither. That is the whole arrangement: natural peach and raspberry flavours laid over the Beefeater botanical bill rather than replacing it, at 37.5%, the lowest strength the category permits.

The two fruits are chosen to work against each other. Peach is soft, round and floral, with a sweetness that is more perfume than sugar; raspberry is sharp, acidic and clearly tart, and it alone stops the peach from turning into syrup. Set together they cover a wider span than either would alone, and the balance the producer is after is exactly that tension. Beneath them the dry structure keeps working: juniper holds the frame, lemon peel and orange peel cut across the fruit, coriander seed brings warm spice, angelica in root and seed lays the dry earth, almond gives a marzipan weight that suits stone fruit particularly well, and liquorice and orris root extend the close.

The nose is ripe peach and raspberry over citrus peel and a soft juniper. The palate is juicy, rounded and fruit-forward, peach sweetness first and raspberry acidity arriving to correct it, with the gin botanicals audible underneath rather than buried.

At this strength the bottle belongs in a long glass. Pink grapefruit tonic is the producer's recommendation and it is a good one, since grapefruit bitterness pulls against the peach in the same direction the raspberry does. Ice heavily, garnish with whole fruit rather than a peel, and avoid anything sweetened: it would collapse the only tension the recipe has. Flavoured gin is an easy category to make badly; keeping the dry base audible underneath is what separates the attempts.