Geraldine Kavanagh forages full time for this distillery, and she brings what she cuts down from the Wicklow hills within hours of picking so the plants reach the still while they are still aromatic. That constraint, more than any recipe, is what shapes Glendalough Wild Botanical: a gin assembled around whatever the valley is doing that week.

The list runs long because it covers a whole year. Juniper and coriander seed, the roots of angelica and orris, and liquorice in both root and bark, hold the classical structure, with organic lemons for citrus. Around them come the wild ones: elderflower, red clover, yarrow, ox-eye daisy, wild rose, bell heather, water mint, lemon balm, sweet woodruff, wild angelica, sweet cicely and lady's bedstraw, plus wild raspberry and blackberry leaves for fruit. Spring, summer, autumn and winter all appear, which is the point of an all-seasons bottling built out of four earlier seasonal ones.

Batches run under 250 litres. Some botanicals are macerated in neutral spirit beforehand; the more fragile ones are suspended in a basket so that only the rising vapour takes their oils. Cuts are judged by taste and smell rather than by instrument, which is the only way to handle a charge that changes with each pick. The nose is juniper, citrus and pine, then meadow flowers and wild herbs. The palate opens cool and mellow, moves into summer flowers, autumn fruit and gentle spice, and finishes long and woodland, warm with winter spice.

Double Gold at San Francisco, Golds at The Gin Masters, the Italian Gin Awards, the Beverage Tasting Institute, the IWSC and the Irish Gin Awards. Bottled at 41%. Wild botanicals are the hardest kind to build a consistent product from, and the vapour basket is the concession that makes it possible. It ends herbal, floral and dry.