Garnish with sage leaves and dark chocolate shavings, says the producer, which sounds like a misprint until you read the botanical list. Both make sense once you know what is in the bottle: the chocolate answers the tonka bean, the sage cuts the vanilla, and neither would be worth doing on a conventional dry gin. Hundred Gin makes Infinity in the province of Liège at 40%.

The compound method explains the freedom. Rather than redistilling with botanicals, the house adds natural aromas to a finished gin base, which lets four dominant flavours be dosed precisely instead of fought for in a still. Vanilla and pear supply the soft rounded sweetness that opens the nose. Tonka bean follows with a warm, faintly balsamic character somewhere between almond and dried hay, and the weight of the whole comes from it. Yuzu arrives last and does the necessary work: a bright citrus lift with a fine bitterness, without which the sweetness would sit heavy. A broader botanical mix runs underneath, framing all four without competing.

The palate follows the same sequence. Pear and vanilla first, tonka warming the middle, yuzu keeping the close fresh, and a finish of medium length where the three sweeter notes fade against a citrus echo. Supple in texture, aromatic rather than dry.

The earlier Hundred releases were limited series; Infinity was built as the permanent one, available all year. Silver in the compound gin category at the World Gin Awards. One bottle in a hundred carries a golden cap, and the code inside it can be sent to the brand for a refund under the terms it publishes. Neat over ice works, and so do fruit-driven cocktails, where pear and vanilla can lead without flattening whatever else is in the glass.