One fruit sits in a list of nine spices, and it is doing more work than its position suggests. Apricot is the only sweet thing in this Belgian recipe, and without it the cumin, the nutmeg and the Sichuan pepper would leave the palate dry to the point of severity. Ardent Spirits works in Liège with Distillerie Radermacher on an organic grain distillate.

The spices are arranged in two groups that pull against each other. Cumin and nutmeg form the warm, savoury half, and cumin in particular is a rare choice: earthy and slightly sweaty in the way the seed genuinely is, it points the whole recipe toward a Middle Eastern kitchen rather than a European bar. Cardamom and coriander sit above them, one cooling and camphorous, the other warm and faintly citric. Then Sichuan pepper arrives and does something none of the others can: it prickles instead of burning, leaving the tongue faintly numb and raising whatever comes after. Bergamot and lemon peel bring the freshness that stops the spice weighing everything down, bergamot sharp and floral, lemon straighter. Angelica pins the base, juniper occupies the centre, and the apricot fills the space between with a round, quiet sweetness.

The producer's own build is a neutral Indian tonic, a lime zest and a few pink peppercorns, which is a considered suggestion rather than a generic one. Follow it: the pink pepper doubles the Sichuan without repeating its numbing effect, and the lime cuts across the cumin. Ice generously, keep the pour firm, and avoid anything sweetened. Nine spices and one fruit is an unbalanced list on paper, and the balance only appears in the glass. Building a gin around a spice cabinet risks producing a curry rather than a drink, and the apricot is what averts it. It closes spiced, fruity and warm.