Two peels are what separate this from its sibling. The eleven botanicals are the same set of Languedoc plants, but here lemon and orange peel are added on top, and that single change moves the whole recipe from the hillside toward the shore. OXXiTAN bottles it as an organic London Dry at 40%.

Citrus leads because room has been made for it. The lemon skin is sharp and oily up top, the orange skin fuller and gentler below, and between them they set a brightness no herb could have supplied. The scrubland is still entirely there underneath. Rosemary and thyme bring the resin, both of them dry, and heather stands beside them with a dustier floral note. Immortelle spreads honey across the centre; chamomile softens it with an apple edge, and lemon verbena answers with a lemon character owing nothing to fruit. Lemongrass adds a further sharpening at the top, cinnamon warms the close, and coriander with angelica root pins the base. The palate balances the zest against the vegetal freshness, and the finish returns to citrus rather than to herb.

A recipe this bright wants a glass that does not muddy it, which rules out most of what a bar would reach for. Neutral tonic, a cold glass under plenty of ice, and lemon in a wedge rather than any herb, the herbs being accounted for already. Thyme in a sprig is the alternative if the hillside is what you would rather emphasise. Sweetened mixers flatten the citrus first, and the herbs go with it. Releasing two gins from nearly the same plant list, and making them taste different, takes more discipline than adding something new. The garrigue and the shore are twenty minutes apart in that part of France, and the two bottles cover both. It ends citric, herbal and fresh.