Combava is the ingredient here that most people will not recognise by name. It is the kaffir lime, and its zest is sharper and far more perfumed than any lemon, carrying a floral edge that ordinary citrus never reaches. Generous builds an organic French gin around it, adding juniper, mandarin, red pepper, coriander and further citrus, and works through maceration as well as distillation.

Three different citrus notes are at play and they occupy separate levels. Mandarin is the sweetest and the roundest, filling the middle with a soft orange fruit that has none of the acidity of a lemon. The general citrus peel sharpens the top. Combava then goes somewhere neither of them can reach, intensely aromatic and almost soapy in the way a perfumer would mean that word, and it explains why the aroma reads as explosive rather than merely fresh. Red pepper is the counterweight, arriving late with a dry heat that stops all that fruit from turning into a cordial, while the coriander seed, warm and spiced, ties fruit and juniper together. Macerating some material before distilling extracts differently from vapour alone, and it shows in a palate that has more flesh than a purely distilled recipe of this brightness usually carries.

Fruit this loud does not want more fruit alongside it. Plain tonic, a glass properly filled with ice, and a single garnish: a thin wheel of lime is closest to the combava, while mandarin peel follows the sweeter side. Skip anything flavoured, which would simply argue with the recipe. Organic certification on a citrus gin matters more than most, since peel is where residues concentrate. Kaffir lime reaches most kitchens as a leaf, and using the zest instead is the less obvious half of the fruit. It ends zesty, floral and gently hot.