Two ingredients. Juniper berries and lime zest, and the label does not pretend there is a third - no sugar, no flavouring, no colouring anywhere in the process. Ginneke'Tiche is a Belgian London Dry that treats juniper as the whole base and adds lime for one specific job: acidity. At 40% ABV, it is an unusually exposed piece of work, since there is nothing to hide behind.

The nose is fruity and lemony, brighter than the recipe suggests, with the lime reading more as fresh zest than as juice. Then the palate goes somewhere less expected. It arrives bold, with a liquorice-like depth that comes from the juniper rather than from any added root, and the first taste is citrus before a subtle peppery juniper note pulls it back. That pepper is the point: with only two elements in play, juniper has room to show its warmer, spicier side instead of just its pine.

The finish runs long and fruity, drifting towards exotic fruit before closing peppery and dry. For a gin built on so little, it keeps going considerably longer than most.

Restraint in the bottle deserves restraint in the glass. Take a cold highball and a single clear cube. Measure 5 cl, lengthen with Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water to 15 cl; its herbal notes give the bare juniper something to lean on without adding sweetness. Garnish with a slice of dehydrated lime, which reinforces the zest without the wateriness of fresh fruit. 1724 keeps things drier still, and Fentimans Mediterranean is the closer alternative if the Fever-Tree is not to hand.