Dill belongs to the northern kitchen, to fish and to pickles, and it appears in almost no gin at all. It is one of only seven botanicals here, which means it has nowhere to hide. J.A. Baczewski traces its line to a distillery founded in Lviv in 1782 and now works in Vienna, building this one on triple-distilled potato spirit at 43.5%.

Seven botanicals divide into two clear groups. The citrus comes first and it is doubled: lemon peel sharp across the top, orange peel rounder and sweeter beneath it, and the vibrancy of the aroma is theirs together. Then the unusual half arrives. Dill is green and faintly aniseed, unmistakably itself, and it lands in the middle where a floral note would sit in a conventional recipe. Aniseed extends that direction with a cleaner liquorice sweetness, and the two together make the herbal character of this bottle quite unlike a London Dry from anywhere further west. Ginger warms the finish with a fresh prickling heat. Coriander bridges citrus and herb with its warm seed spice, and juniper holds a firm resinous centre that the classification demands. Triple distillation of the potato base is what keeps everything this smooth.

Adaptable is the word, and the recipe earns it. Long, it wants neutral tonic and as much ice as the glass holds; a Martini shows the dill more clearly than any mixed build will. Lemon peel is the expected garnish, though a dill sprig follows the recipe and looks better than the idea suggests. Sweetened mixers are the thing to skip. A gold at the 2013 World Spirits Award confirmed a recipe that was already two centuries into its history. A house that moved country and kept its recipe has more reason than most to leave it alone. It closes herbal, citric, warm.