Sugarcane is what rum is made from, and using it as the base for a gin is a decision almost nobody takes. Gin'ca distils in Peru on that foundation, adds wild Macedonian juniper and three Peruvian berries picked in three different regions, and bottles at 40% with nothing artificial added.

A cane base is not neutral. It carries a faint grassy sweetness that grain never has, and that sweetness is what lets the berries read as fruit rather than as flavouring. The three of them are chosen for contrast. Blueberries from Lambayeque are the roundest, soft and slightly jammy. Raspberries from Caraz bring the tartness, sharp and seedy, and they hold the front of the palate. Blackberries from Ancash sit lowest and darkest, adding a deeper, more brambly weight underneath the other two. Four days of maceration before distillation is what extracts that colour of flavour: long enough to draw the fruit out properly, short enough that nothing turns cooked. Macedonian juniper keeps a firm resinous line through the middle, and lemon lifts the top with a clean citrus edge. No sugar has been added and none is needed.

Fruit distilled rather than infused afterwards behaves differently in a glass, and this one takes dilution well. Neutral tonic over abundant ice is the sensible build, and the pour can be normal since the fruit is robust. Fresh berries repeat the recipe; a lime wedge cuts across it instead, and that is the livelier option. Nothing sweetened, which would undo the whole point of leaving sugar out. Three regions for three berries is a logistical decision made for flavour. Peru grows the fruit and the cane both, and the only thing imported here is the juniper itself. It closes fruity, tart and clean.