Dill seed is the detail that saves this from being a sweet shop in a bottle. Alongside juniper, orange zest and strawberry, it is the fourth element in Fox Gang Pink, and it does the work no fruit can: a dry, faintly aniseed herb note that gives the strawberry something to push against. Vilniaus Degtine makes it in Vilnius at 37.5% ABV.

Pink gins usually declare themselves on the nose and have nothing left afterwards. This one opens the expected way, with fresh red berries and ripe strawberry over a soft floral edge, but the orange zest arrives underneath almost immediately and keeps the top from going flat. The palate is smooth and approachable, sweet in the pink-fruit register rather than the sugar one, and the dill seed shows up in the second half - a cool, herbal, slightly savoury line that runs beneath the fruit and dries the finish out. Juniper stays quiet but present, which is more than several gins in this category manage.

That balance is worth protecting when mixing. In a highball, set a large ice sphere to slow the dilution, pour 5 cl and lengthen with 15 cl Fentimans Rose Lemonade: the rose picks up the floral thread already in the gin and the lemonade's acidity keeps the strawberry from turning cloying. Garnish with a slice of fresh strawberry and a sprig of mint, crushed lightly between the fingers first. If you would rather drink it drier, Fever-Tree Elderflower stays floral without the sweetness, and Le Tribute pushes the citrus and the dill forward instead of the berry. Whichever route you take, keep the glass very cold: at 37.5% there is not much holding the fruit up once it warms, and the dill is the first thing to fade.